The first time many people taste a really fresh extra virgin olive oil, they're surprised. It's bitter. Then, a second later, it catches the back of the throat and makes them cough. Surely olive oil is meant to be smooth?
Not good olive oil. Italian tasters even grade oils as "one-cough" or "two-cough". That bitterness and pepper are among the clearest signs that an oil is fresh and made from healthy, early-picked olives.
Where the pepper comes from
The peppery sting comes mainly from a natural compound called oleocanthal, one of the polyphenols in olive oil. It's unusual because it barely registers on the tongue. Instead, it triggers sensors at the back of the throat, which is why the sensation arrives a moment after you swallow and why it can make you cough.
Where the bitterness comes from
Bitterness comes from other polyphenols, including compounds formed from oleuropein, which gives raw olives straight from the tree their intense bitterness. Green olives picked early in the season contain far more of these than ripe black olives, so early-harvest oils taste noticeably more bitter.
Official tasters see it as quality
When professional panels assess olive oil, they look for three positive qualities:
- Fruity: the fresh, green or ripe aromas of the olive.
- Bitter: felt mostly at the back of the tongue.
- Pungent: the peppery catch in the throat.
An oil can't be graded extra virgin unless it has some fruitiness and no faults. Bitterness and pungency in balance with fruit are what separate a vivid oil from a merely acceptable one.
Why it fades
Polyphenols are natural antioxidants, and they're used up as oil ages, protecting it from going stale. So bitterness and pepper slowly soften over the months after pressing. A very mild oil isn't necessarily bad, as some varieties are naturally gentle, but an oil with no bite at all is often an older one. See how to tell if olive oil is fresh.
What decides how strong an oil is
- Variety. Some olives are naturally intense. Our Moraiolo is one of Italy's most robust.
- Harvest timing. Earlier means greener, more bitter and more peppery. Later means softer and riper.
- Age. New oil (olio nuovo) is at its most intense.
- Storage. Light, heat and air speed up the fade.
How to enjoy a bold oil
A strong oil is at its best with food that can stand up to it:
- Toasted bread rubbed with garlic, with salt and lots of oil.
- Bean and chickpea soups, lentils and farro.
- Grilled steak, lamb or sausages.
- Bitter greens, roast vegetables, ripe tomatoes.
- Pasta with garlic and chilli.
Fat, salt, starch and heat all soften bitterness, so an oil that seems fierce from a spoon often tastes perfectly balanced over a bowl of beans.
Our 2026 oil
This year's 1540 oil is a two-cough oil: bright green, grassy, with a bitter edge and a long, spicy finish. If you like olive oil with real character, it's the one to try.